Shops and Antiques

Budapest Shopping Introduction

With bargains to be had on everything from shoes to dinner services, there's no doubt that shopping in Budapest can be an interesting and rewarding experience. Prices for most goods, although higher than elsewhere in the country, are still lower than in Western European or North American countries.

If you intend to visit towns and tourist areas outside of Budapest, it's wise to note down prices when you first arrive so as to help gauge whether they're cheaper out of town. And, if you plan to bring back some typically Hungarian goods or souvenirs, try buying direct from a factory outlet (so as to avoid the sizeable markups made in some tourist shops).

As credit cards are now more widely accepted, there's little difficulty loading up on the plastic, particularly in larger shops and stores geared towards tourists (or those owned by Western retailers). However, in smaller shops and markets, cash is still king so make sure you're carrying a reasonable amount of Hungarian forints (HUF).

As shopping areas in Budapest are well planned, you should find that shops along Váci Utca (which has some of the smartest stores in the city) or along the Nagy Körút (big road) meet with even the most discerning tastes. However, a stroll along some of Budapest's side streets may also reveal specialist or neighborhood shops that are of interest too.

In addition, you're likely to see signs advertising small shops in the courtyards (udvar) of residential blocks. Although some sell cheap toys, dodgy fashions and trinkets, others may specialize in souvenirs and interesting gift items.

Opening hours

Hungarian shops normally open between 10am and 6pm on weekdays and between 10am and 1pm on Saturday, although nowadays many supermarkets (especially those out of town or located in shopping malls) have extending hours. And, in residential or busy city center areas, you'll also find 24hr grocers shops (called 'ejjel-nappal' or 'non-stop') that sell essentials such as bread, coffee, milk and tea, along with other foodstuffs, drinks and alcohol. However, as some of these can be a lure for drunks and other un savoury elements late at night, it's wise to exercise caution.

Another typically European trait is that smaller shops tend to close for 1-2 hours at lunchtimes. Frustratingly, some outlets even shut while the owner pops to the Post Office for 10 minutes. Rest assured, however, he/she will return a couple of hours later having met friends who insisted on a quick visit to the local pub or cafe. Look for a sign saying "Azonnal (or Rogton) Jövök" on the door. Its up to you whether you wait!!

Small shops will also put a sign up to indicate when they're going on holiday. This will normally be two weeks in July or August, so if you're looking for say, a specialist engraver, make sure that you can collect your goods before leaving Hungary.

Budapest Antiques - Collectables, Jewellery, Silverware, Fine Art, Porcelain, Furniture and Object D'Art

With antiques shops galore in Budapest, a visit to any of the premises listed below should be rewarded by a bargain find or impulse purchase. Just remember though, most antiques (including paintings) require you to obtain a permit for legal export out of Hungary. If in doubt, ask the seller for advice.

BÁV (Bizományi Kereskedõház és Záloghitel Rt.)
V. Kossuth Lajos u. 1–3, Tel: 317 3718, Open: Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat 9am-1pm, Metro: M3 Ferenciek tere

Web site: www.bav.hu

State owned, much of BÁV's inventory is made up of antiques seized by customs (usually because an export permit was either not obtained by the previous owner or simply not issued). This shop specializes in fine art, chandeliers and porcelain, although two other locations (V. Ferenciek tere 5 and V. Bécsi u. 1) stock other items such as carpets.

BÁV Jewellery (Rubin Ékszerbolt)
V. Párizsi utca 2, Tel: 318 6217, Open: Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat 10am-1pm, Metro: M3 Ferenciek tere

Web site: www.bav.hu
State owned chain stocking mainly watches and antique gold/silver jewellery.

Belvárosi Aukcióház
V. Váci utca 36, Tel: 266 8374, Open: Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, 10am-4pm Sat-Sun, Metro: M1 Vörösmarty tér
City auction house with an extensive catalogue of furniture and paintings. Auctions every Monday.

Classic Home Antiques & Gallery
V. Szt István tér 4-5, Tel: 266 6897 and 327 0303, Open: Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat 10am-2pm, Metro: M1, M2, M3 Deák tér
Discount antiques including restored items and those needing a bit of TLC. Good range of furniture on display, with an easy to find location near to St. Stephen's Cathedral.

Darius Antiques
V. Falk Miksa u. 24-26, Tel: 311 2603, Open: 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat, Metro: M2 Kossuth tér
Specializing in Biedermeier furniture, Darius also carries object d'art and Viennese antiques.

Forgács
V. Kempinski Hotel Corvinus, Erzsébet tér 7-8, Tel: 266 1000, Open: Mon-Fri 1pm-8pm, Sat 2pm-7pm, Metro: M1, M2, M3 Deák tér
Antique prints, foreign language books and rare editions. Located in the plush five star surroundings of the Corvinus Kempinski hotel.

Nagyházi Galéria
V. Balaton utca 8, Tel: 475 6000, Fax: 475 6005, Open: Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat 10am-1pm, Metro: M3 Nyugati pu.

Web site: www.nagyhazi.hu
The largest of Budapest's antique contingent, the Nagyházi stocks mainly furniture, paintings and porcelain. Auctions also routinely take place here each month.

Polgár Gallery and Auction House
V. Kossuth Lajos u. 3, Tel: 318 6954, Fax: 317 3017, Open: Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat 10am-1pm, Metro: M3 Ferenciek Tere

Web site: www.polgar-galeria.hu
Boasting two other outlets on Váci utca, the Polgár Gallery specializes in fine works of art, jewellery, silver, collectibles and furniture. Auctions are regularly held at the Belvedere Hall 11/b Váci utca, with large lots being handled on the first day and smaller items on subsequent days. Before buying or bidding, overseas visitors should check whether an export permit is needed for goods they're interested in.

Szõnyi Antikvárium
Szent István krt. 3, Tel: 311 6431, Open: Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat 9am-1pm, Metro: M3 Nyugati pu.

Web site: www.szonyi.hu
Specializing in rare, antiquarian books, the Szõnyi Antikvárium is a real treasure trove for beautiful old Latin and German titles, while engravings and maps of Hungary (from the days of the Austro/Hungarian Empire) can also be found here.

Qualitas
V. Kígyó utca 5, Tel: 318 3246, Open: Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat 10am-1pm, Metro: M3 Ferenciek tere and VII. Dohány utca, Metro: M2 Astoria
Specializing in period furniture, porcelain and object d'art. The company also operate another store in the Castle District (Krisztina krt. 73) which carries fine art.

Budapest Shopping Malls Introduction

Over the last couple of years Budapest has seen more than ten major malls open for business - an adventurous attempt to attract Hungarians to western style shopping and leisure. Most of the shops in each mall are owned by western retailers (often being well-established brands) or Hungarian companies trying to emulate their success.

Although initially there was a great deal of scepticism as to whether such ventures would take off, Budapest's malls have proved popular with both locals and tourists alike. And, with even more on the way it seems that residents of the city should have their own 'personal mall' by 2005. A listing of the best is as follows:

Budapest Malls

Árkád
X. Õrs vezér tere 25, Tel: 434 8200, Fax: 434 8207, Open: Mon-Fri 10am-9pm, Sat 10am-7pm, Metro: M2 Õrs vezér tere and HÉV stop
The German owned Árkád shopping center is among the newest in Budapest, having opened in March 2002. Benefitting from a huge catchment area and excellent transport links (both via metro and HÉV) Árkád boasts over 170 retailers including big names such as Nike, Budmil, Mexx, Esprit, Salamander, Humanic and MediaMarkt. Well-built, with a very pleasant atmosphere, although it can get rather busy!

CamponaÕ
XXII. Campona Bevásárlóközpont, Nagytétényi út 37-45, Tel: 424 3000, Bus 3 to Nagytétény

Web site: www.campona.hu
Aside from Campona's feeble web site, the shopping center has been a surprising success despite being located on the very outskirts of Budapest. If you have a car - and just happen to be traveling along route 6 (E76) - then it's well worth a visit. If not, then the No. 3 bus will also get you there (at a leisurely pace). Be warned though, it's far easier to get to nearly all of the other malls listed below. That said, highlights include a large Debenhams store, an Aquarium and 11 screen UCI Palace Cinema.

Csepel Plaza
XXI, Rákóczi F. út 154-170, Csepel Plaza, Tel: 425 8111, HÉV to Szent Imre tér
60 or so outlets, including a Bata shoes store, Libri bookshop, Murányi electronics and a Cinema City Multiplex. Not the most centrally located mall for tourists (being lo acted on the sprawling Csepel Island), although if you're planning a trip south on the HÉV then it's well-worth a visit.

Duna Plaza
XIII. Váci út 178, Tel: 465 1666, Open: Mon-Fri 10am-9pm, Sat-Sun 10am-7pm, Metro: M3 Gyöngyösi út

Web site: www.dunaplaza.net
With over 120 shops, a nine screen "Hollywood Multiplex", video arcade and bowling alley, the Duna Plaza is more reminiscent of malls in Edmonton or Toronto than Budapest. The Virgin Megastore stocks probably the widest selection of CDs anywhere in Budapest, while in the ground floor Sony shop, locals gawp at some of the largest TVs we've ever seen. There's also an Internet club for those who just have to 'surf the Net' while on their holidays.

Europark
XIX. Üllöi út 201, Tel: 347 1549, Open: Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat 10am-1pm, Metro: M3 Hátár út
Among the smallest and least impressive of Budapest's malls, there really isn't much here to recommend, especially when compared to both Duna Plaza and the Pólus Center, which offer an infinitely better shopping experience.

Lurdy Ház
IX. Bevásárló Központ, Könyves Kálmán krt. 12-14, Tel: 456 1100, Metro: M3 Népliget and HÉV stop Vagóhíd

Web site: www.lurdyhaz.hu
An impressive complex that, as well as housing a Marks & Spencer Store, contains a Zsolnay Márkabolt, big name sports retailers (Adidas, Umbro, Nike), trendy fashions (Levi's, Kookai, Saxoo, Roger McGill) a multiplex cinema and ten-pin bowling (good, but expensive at 2,300 HUF per hour). Over 120 shops in total, including an excellent range of food/drink options.

Mammut
II. Nagyajtai út, 4/a Széna tér, Tel: 345 8000, Open: Mon-Fri 10am-9pm, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm, Metro: M2 Moszkva tér

Web site: www.mammut.hu
Opened in August 1998, Buda's Mammut is arguably the most successful (yet) of the capital's malls. Located near the busy transport hub of Moszkva tér, Mammut's glowing dome acts as a homing beacon to the many shoppers who arrive by metro. Although big name fashion and sport shops predominate, a good range of smaller outlets means that even the most discerning shoppers won't leave disappointed. A decent choice of cafés and restaurants on the upper floors (the swankiest of which is the café Miro MkII) also come in handy for taking a well earned rest. For technology junkies, the sprawling Murányi electrical store is probably the best of its kind in Budapest.

Mammut II
II. Lövöház utca 2-6, Tel: 345 8020, Open: Mon-Fri 10am-9pm, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm, Metro: M2 Moszkva tér

Web site: www.mammut.hu
Conveniently located next to the original Mammut building, this extended shopping centre now offers a sprawling Benetton, plus Mexx and Kookai stores.

Mom Park
XII, Alkotás út 53, Tel: 487 5501, Fax: 487 5505, Tram 59, 61, Bus 8, 139

Web site: www.mompark.hu
Aside from having one of the best new cinemas in Hungary (the nine-screen UCI Palace), Mom Park is actually a fairly ordinary, albeit recently built shopping mall. There's a somewhat retro feel to the materials used - circa 1970s if we were being unkind - although plus points are a nice Match supermarket (on the lower food court level) a well-equipped Matáv Internet café and rather less people than in Mammut or the WestEnd Center!

Pólus Center
XV Szentmihályi út 131, Tel: 414 2145, Open: Mon-Fri 10am-8pm, Sat-Sun 10am-7pm, Shuttle bus from Metro: M2 Keleti pu.

Web site: www.polus.com
With distinctly American leanings (even down to the various concourse which have names such as Sunset Boulevard and Rodeo Drive), the Pólus used to be the biggest of Budapest's malls (until the WestEnd Center below opened). Home also to a giant Tesco (the British supermarket chain) the mall is well laid out but extremely busy.

Rózsakert
II. Bevásárló Központ, Gábor Áron u. 74-78, Tel: 391 5998, Bus 5, 22, 49, 56E

Web site: www.rozsakert.hu
Located off Szilágyi Erzsébet Fasor, the Rózsakert is another new and impressive mall, with a Kaiser's Supermarket, specialist food shops, CIB bank, post office and a whole host of furniture/home improvement retailers. With good transport connections from Moszkva tér.

Új Udvar
III. Új Udvar Bevásárló és Szérakoztató Központ, Bécsi út 38-44, Tel: 437 8383, Tram 17 to Kolosy tér, HÉV stop Szépvölgyi út
Smaller in scale than other malls listed here, although Új Udvar does boast a Cinema City multiplex and King Arthur's medieval restaurant (quite an achievement in itself). A location close to Margit Sziget is a boon, being just a short walk from Szépvölgyi út HÉV stop.

WestEnd City Center
VI. Váci út 1-3, Tel: 238 7777, Metro: M3 Nyugati pu., Opening hours to follow

Web site: www.westend.hu
Situated close to the city's Western railway station (Nyugati pu.) the WestEnd City Center is Central Europe's largest (and arguably most impressive) shopping mall. Developed by Canada's TrizecHahn corporation, the award winning architecture is both futuristic and imposing, with a wonderfully angular facade that's straight out of Logan's Run.

With over 400 shops, there were legitimate worries over the effect that the Center's opening will have upon small businesses in the district. That said, the WestEnd City Center aptly demonstrates the pace and grand scale of new developments in the city. Incorporating the Hilton WestEnd Hotel and a pleasant roof garden, it's certainly a near perfect model for similar large-scale developments in the future. Budapest is thinking big. And let's face it, none come bigger (or better) than the WestEnd Center.

Budapest Department Stores

Larger shops are often owned by Western retailers and, as a consequence, the quality of both goods and service has improved over the last few years. What's more, plenty of bargains can be found, particularly on clothes, leather goods and shoes.

Corvin Áruház
VIII. Blaha Lujza tér 1-2, Tel: 338 4160, Open: Mon-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat 10am-3pm, Metro: M2 Blaha Lujza tér/Tram 4, 6
Home furnishings, clothing, underwear, toys and other goods (such as towels, kitchen accessories) predominate as this centrally located store. A worthy find, especially as it boasts a well-stocked Kaiser's supermarket on the ground-floor. And, contrary to what some (rather outdated guides on Budapest) say about the Corvin, a docket system is not used to purchase goods and credit cards are instantly accepted!

Fontana
V. Váci utca 16, Tel: 266 6400, Open: Mon-Fri 10am-7pm, Saturday 10am-3pm, Metro: M1 Vörösmarty tér
Situated just a few doors along from the Taverna Hotel, the Fontana sells mainly women's and men's fashions, along with baby clothes, sports goods, perfume, cosmetics, luggage and umbrellas. Thankfully it's air-conditioned (essential in July/August) while the top floor café is also a pleasant find.

Luxus
V. Vörösmarty tér 3, Tel: 318 3550, Metro: M1 Vörösmarty tér
Long established department store in a popular area near to Váci utca. Good range of men's and women's fashions, along with perfume and accessories. Unsurprisingly it's prime location attracts higher than average prices, although seasonal sales produce decent bargains.

Budapest Markets

Budapest has some excellent Markets (piac), many of which are housed in grand market halls. Not only are they great places in which to see locals going about their daily business, but also offer high quality produce at cheap prices. In fact, for vegetarians looking to escape the usual restaurant diet of fried mushroom and cheese dishes, we recommend shopping at a market to find the freshest fruit, vegetables and bread. And, if you're after food on the go, try an in-house fast food stall. Not only do they offer a tasty alternative to McDonald's or Pizza Hut in the form of langos - a fried dough snack - but a wide array of hot Hungarian sausages too! Of course, as with any market, always be wary of pickpockets and keep your valuables safely tucked away.

Esceri Flea Market (Használtcikk piac)
XIX. Nagykörösi út 156, Tel: 282 9563, Open: Mon-Sat 7am-2pm, Bus 154 from Metro: M3 Határ út or 54 bus from HÉV stop Boráros tér (in both cases get off at Fiume út stop)
Bric-a-brac, Communist memorabilia and textile stalls line the outer part of the market, while the more upmarket pitches sell anything from fine porcelain and antiques to machine supplies. You'll need to haggle for your country to get the best deals though.

Central Market Hall (Nagy Vásárcsarnok)

Web site: www.piaconline.hu
See website for further information.

Józsefvárosi V (Chinese Market)
VII. Kõbányai út 21-23, Open: 7am-6pm daily, Tram 28, 37
A bustling place with mainly Chinese stall-holders selling cut price designer fashions, shoes, silks and housewares. Cheap "Stolichnaya" vodka if you dare, although chances are it's dodgy moonshine.

Lehel tér Piac
VI. Lehel tér, Open: Mon-Sat 6am-2pm, Metro: M3 Lehel tér
A traditional, more laid back market selling mainly meat and fresh produce. Conveniently located close to the city centre.

designed by Boris 2004